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Tag: Jerusalem

Turkish Coffee

Not the coffee shop in Jerusalum. This was actually taken in Bethlehem. The good 'Ol Stars and Bucks.

Travel Journal, 73

My wife and I walked together in the Jewish Quarter of Jerusalem, several years ago. The stone streets led us through beautiful and ancient pathways, revealing one of the most important and stunning cities we have ever visited. When people ask me where to go if they had only one trip left in their life, I tell them, Jerusalem. You’ll never find a place more eclectic, stunning, historical, rewarding, fun, delicious, and mysterious.

We were on our second day in Israel, after taking a bus from Tel Aviv. I could feel that Grim-Reaper-like presence of jet lag creeping in. It always seems like we’re only one step ahead.

But we stopped at a café in the Jewish Quarter for some falafel (tasty pita wrap made from chic peas), and I found a stand nearby selling coffee.

If you haven’t noticed by now, I love coffee in its varied and delightful forms. And in the United States, finding coffee, and quality coffee at that, proves quite easy. Many people are on the hunt for the perfect cup. But there is one form of coffee which is pretty rare to find. Sure, if you look closely you may discover it on a menu at a middle eastern or Mediterranean restaurant. But even then, it’s not a very popular drink.

I’m talking about Turkish Coffee.

Why is this drink so unpopular and unknown? I have a theory: it is very strong, and far from sweet. In a world of tall, sweet, iced, chocolaty, creamy, blended, caramelized, and rich, Turkish Coffee only vaguely resembles a distant cousin. Turkish Coffee possesses all of the recessive genes: short, hot, highly spiced, only a couple of ounces, very strong, and almost pungent.

But don’t be frightened. Fortune favors the bold.

I took a sip at that café in Jerusalem and almost fell off my stool. The coffee stand worker noticed my mistake and rushed to tell me to wait to drink it. I had taken in mostly fine and bitter grounds.

Turkish coffee consists of a finely ground coffee and various spices, such as cardamom. It is also served with sugar. The coffee is typically served with only a few ounces of boiling water. The server will scoop the grounds, spice, and sugar into a small copper pot with a small handle and heat it to boiling several times. After it has met with his satisfaction, the coffee slurry is poured into cup. The drinker then waits for the grounds to settle to the bottom of the cup, hence most Turkish coffees are served in glass.

Though even after the grounds settled to the bottom, the drink still nearly floored me. Turkish Coffee remains one of my favorite coffee drinks in the world. But word to the wise, it will put hair on your chest.

anthony forrest

Land of the Nativity

Travel Journal, 42

We are greeted with clasping hands and a generous smile.

It is hard to know who said “shalom” first. But we all do at some point during introductions.

The man quickly catches a boy by the shoulder.

The little black-haired boy looks up at his father, who had stopped him in his play. The boy gazes up at his father, listening to the instructions. But in a couple of seconds, the boy runs off like a shot, out the door and down the alleyway.

Our host (also shop owner) eagerly leads the four of us to four tiny plastic chairs of differing colors. Color seems to be the theme running through Jerusalem. Brightly ornate scarves hang about us. Several languages color the air. And a dozen or more ethnic groups create a culture more colorful than any other on this earth.

And now I see the little Arab boy, running in his shorts and sandals, carrying something. He holds what looks like a platter suspended by three ropes tied at the top and held in his hand. On that platter are five small and clear glasses of green tea, whole leaves. The lad moves effortlessly through a nearby crowd. He enters the store and his father serves us.

It’s delicious and sweet—this tea, this place, this moment, everything. And all the uncomprehended Hebrew has me hypnotized. But I refocus and notice that our friends stand and begin moving into another room.

We are here with an objective.

We are here to find Christmas.

Presently, the shop owner and giver of delightful tea rummages through piles of olive wood carvings. First, he produces the hand-crafted manger; then Mary, now Joseph, baby Jesus, shepherds, wise men three, sheep, camels, ect.

It’s all here. He tells us, as is visible by the various models nearby, that he has crafted hundreds of Nativity scenes. He appears quite proud of his creation.

He should be proud.

His hands craft the very throne of the Majestic One. Olive wood is lowly enough to be hand-crafted and beautiful enough for a King; which, to me, seems just right.

Tis a King’s tale.

 

anthony forrest

Travel Journal, 22

Old and Older

Historical buildings and architecture fascinate me. Tall spires donned by looming cathedrals, crumbling Greek ruins, precariously leaning towers, and uneven cobbled stone roads lure me into the world. No matter where you go, most people and most cultures respect the old places. Whether you go to Israel or Boston, the oldest locations demand respect and fascination.

Jerusalem, 2015

We stepped through the ancient doorway and peered out into the Old City. When reading ancient texts, many authors, when talking about going to Jerusalem, say that they “go up” to the city. Even if a traveler is going south, they say they’re “going up.” The reason? The Old City of Jerusalem is on a hill. We looked down from the top of that hill. All around us lay the ruins of a palace. The most famous King of Israel was the King David, son of Jesse of Bethlehem; he lived sometime around 1000 BCE. This was his house. English translations on placards spoke of ancient times and doings. We wandered dumbfoundedly and tried to comprehend its age and meaning. From here, the king could see everything; the city, the wall, the gates, and even the majestic Holy Temple which stood nearby. The respect that hung in the air was hotter than the Israeli sun. And it’s no surprise. This was the place of kings and honor.

Boston, 2014

A year earlier, we were eating cannoli and gazing up at what may just be the most important bookstore in American history; at least it was. In the early 19th century, the Old Corner Bookstore began selling books and magazines. And throughout its active literary history, the Bookstore published authors such as Nathaniel Hawthorn, Ralph Waldo Emerson, and the quintessential American poet himself, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. The classic post-colonial building looks like a brick barn. Its windows jut out onto the sidewalk, beckoning window-shoppers to peek within. You’d expect to see gas lanterns hanging nearby. But alas, no, a Chipotle restaurant sign clings to the façade. The whole thing looks fake—like somebody on a committee accidently approved a zoning permit, then completely forgot about it. One of the most important literary sites in the United States of America now sells burritos instead of books. What once fed minds and hearts and souls, now feeds the people what the really want. At least, that’s what it may seem like on first glance.

Part of us

To say that western culture, and specifically American culture, lacks respect for important landmarks and heritage is unfair and simply not true. Downtown Boston is full of historical landmarks, heritage sites, and museums. The owners of the building could have bulldozed it for more space. But they didn’t. It has been preserved and hundreds of people visit it daily. How else would I have known the history of the building without a nearby plaque?

Western and American culture reinvents, reuses, and integrates historical remnants into our everyday lives. In Boston, it’s difficult to know where the old ends and the new begins.

Our history is quite literally part of us.

But just to be safe, don’t make us choose between burritos and books.

anthony forrest

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