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Tag: Iceland

Do Whatever Just to Stay Alive: Iceland and Thriving

The Secret Life of Walter Mitty was filmed here in Stykkishólmur, Iceland

Travel Journal, 136

A couple of years have passed since I stood on the barren ground in Iceland. I gotta say, Iceland is not for everyone. It sits at the top of the world, neither North American nor European. This otherworldly place may make you uncomfortable with its sparse landscape, smoking earth, endless light (and darkness in the Winter), and black-pebble beaches. With the exception of tourist locales, it often haunts visitors with its lack of people. Open roads seemingly lead nowhere, for miles on end.

But it also surprises with an unexpected warmth. The people who live there are active, hiking the rugged terrain to nearby volcanos and glaciers. Tiny restaurants dot the landscape, here and there. It’s easy to find terrific fish and chips on this island in the cold, Cod-teeming North Atlantic Ocean. Astounding local music pours from cafés and clubs and theaters. The Jazz scene is the best in Europe. And one of my favorite Icelandic traditions happens on Christmas Eve. In the newly independent, post-WWII Iceland, the struggling economy greatly restricted what could be imported. But paper and books were prevalent. So when Christmas rolled around, the people here turned to their history of literacy and began a “Christmas Book Flood.” (Jólabókaflóð) So each Christmas eve, Icelanders give and receive books, reading and drinking hot chocolate deep into the Christmas season.

It seems that though Iceland is a rough place at the edge of the world, the people there do whatever just to stay alive. One of my favorite movies is The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. Many of the scenes in that movie were filmed there. It follows a discontent guy in his forties who hasn’t been anywhere noteworthy or mentionable, or done anything noteworthy or mentionable. He slaves away at his corporate job and faces getting downsized when his company goes online. He’s forced to break out of his constant daydreaming and face a real-life world with adventures, people, and experiences better than anything he can imagine. Walter lost his dad at a young age and has since then put his dreams away. At the beginning we are led to believe that he is simply just doing what he has to do to get by. But when forced to leave his desk, we discover that when he actually does what he needs to do to survive, he’s really thriving.

Though the people in Iceland appear to just manage during a dark winter and barren land, they are really thriving. It’s the beauty of this life. We tend to literally make the best of things. We get a taste of that here in Minnesota. The sun hardly shows its face during Winter. The minus 40 windchill prohibits most activities. And everything feels dismal. But somehow, we thrive.

Stay Alive, by Jose Gonzales plays throughout the film, Icelandic terrain as the backdrop. The song tells the story of the movie.

There’s a rhythm and rush these days

Where the lights don’t move and the colors don’t fade

Leaves you empty with nothing but dreams

In a world gone shallow

In a world gone lean

He’s missing something, until we breaks out and finds that…

Dawn is coming

Open your eyes

Look into the sun as the new days rise

We’ll do whatever just to stay alive

I thought of this song as we stood looking out on the North Atlantic in the fishing village of Stykkishólmur. The helicopter scene was filmed there. The quiet and quaint town sits on the north end of western Iceland. Sun sets for an hour in the summer, and rises for only an hour in the winter. It takes hours to get there from anywhere.

A tough place.

Out of the way from anything.

They fish and create crafts and run tiny cafés and serve people like me darn good coffees. One could say that they’re just getting by. But in their “getting by” they’ve created a place of warm delight. They thrive in a seemingly hard, but now beautiful life.

They do whatever just to stay alive.

 

anthony forrest

 

You can revisit Iceland in these other stories:

Iceland: on Covid testing and travel in a post-pandemic world

Iceland: on hot springs

Iceland: on the people and culture

Iceland: on Stykkishólmur and the men from God

Iceland: on Stykkishólmur and the men from God

Travel Journal, 107

I sat in the second row of our Citroën C4 van/car/shoebox as we bumbled down the pothole infested highway in southern Iceland. Shockingly enough, the strange little van-like, seven passenger car-thing held the six of us nicely, save for the crumpled last passenger in the back. Leave it up to Europe to come us with a vehicle that’s bigger on the inside than on the outside. Those tiny roads are the mother of invention.

We drove the southern coast of Iceland on the first day of our trip. The drive was lovely. Iceland displays sheep pasture and grazing lands, interspersed with jutting mountains, glaciers, and tiny towns—all of which rests along the coastline. Most Icelanders live near the coast, with fewer than 1,000 people living over 600 feet above sea level. And for the most part, the asphalt road was well maintained and smooth as glass.

But today was another story. We got a wild idea to drive across the island, to the north and west. With local bakery and local coffee under our belt, Jeramie jumped into the driver’s seat and we began our short journey.

We had driven along the southern coast a couple of days ago and thought we had an idea as to what we were doing. Easy driving ahead, we assumed. Our tiny French car tootled along nicely with Jeramie at the wheel. But the roads turned curvy and curvier. Narrow lanes grew narrower. Potholes sunk pothole-ier. And the wild land grew wilder. The southern part of Iceland is quite popular, with its interesting sites (like a 1970’s DC-3 Airplane crashed on a desolate black sand beach), and it’s fantasy-TV-esque waterfalls (Skógafoss waterfall was featured in both the TV show Vikings and Marvel’s Thor: The Dark World). But many other parts of Iceland receive much less attention.

This part of the road led us through a quiet land with fewer and fewer farms and tiny towns. I don’t want to say that it is a barren and desolated emptiness void of all life and color…but I might have to. The winding and bumpy road shook us into a batter of ready-to-be-poured human pancake mix. We all wanted a massage (I know a guy in Malaysia if you’re interested).

Up ahead, in the distance—what is that?

A mirage?

The end of the Earth? Shall we fall off its edge and perish?

No, a tiny café sat on a corner and beckoned us inside. We shook off the aches, eagerly removed the accumulated liquid waste from our bodies, procured another coffee, and crammed ourselves once more into the audaciously and inexplicable strong Citroën C4.

We drove on for quite some time again, before we arrived at the quaint and silent Stykkishólmur, poised on the edge the cold North Atlantic Ocean.

I often hear of the “middle of nowhere” or out of the way places. But rarely do I find them. Don’t get me wrong, tourists do come here…just not that often. Most of the people here make their money working on the fishing boats and nearby processing. A ferry also takes tourists from here to the Westfjords area each night. But just like everywhere else, they have a school, a grocery store, and restaurants. Just like the rest of Iceland, local artisans were at work in the shops, turning pieces of nothing into beauty. A little lighthouse sits at the tip of the tallest hill near the town, where the wind fights hard to keep it barren of plants and hikers. The views stun the viewer. Icy North Atlantic water never rests—a calm day doesn’t exist here. And today, the weather threatens, so the water crashes even colder and rougher. The delightful Stykkishólmur gave me everything I wanted in an idyllic fishing village. We even had fish and chips at a local eatery (you cannot beat the cod).  It made getting there worth it.

The trip back felt as dismal as before. But now it was raining. Each of us were now truly feeling the effects of not only travel and jet lag, but the pummeling we endured on the way out here. All but Jeramie, our unfazed driver, dozed into a trance.

I felt the car slowing rapidly. Jeramie was saying something about it raining and a man outside. I opened my eyes and found that he had turned the car around. He parked the car on the opposite side of the road and got out of the vehicle, into the pouring rain and 45-degree weather.

He had stopped to help an older man change a tire. There was no service station in site and we were at least another hour to Reykjavik. Jeramie was out there in a t-shirt. His wife was gathering his jacket from the backseat. So I threw on my jacket, grabbed his, and out the door I followed.

Turns out, the gentleman was at a loss. He was no more capable of changing the tire himself. Jeramie had the edge of the vehicle off the ground by the time I got there, and we finished the job together. The gentleman spoke little English.

All he could manage to say was in his very broken accent, “You, thank you. You…men from God.”

Our trip back turned out to be an important one—more important than a simple site-seeing excursion. But an opportunity to help an older man and actually be the hands of God. I’d have missed it in my daze. But Jeramie kept a sharp eye. Solid work, brother!

 

anthony forrest

more on Iceland:

Iceland: on Covid testing and travel in a post-pandemic world

Iceland: on hot springs

Iceland: on the people and culture

Iceland: on Covid testing and travel in a post-pandemic world

Travel Journal, 103

*Disclaimer: The info written below was accurate at the time of travel. Some requirements have changed since then. Also, please respect all international travel guidelines. The following is not a good example.

We stood in line at the Keflavik Airport in Iceland, getting tested for Covid-19.

My leg twitched.

Tears flowed down my cheek.

She pulled the spear of death out of my nostril after twisting it like a screw driver three times. I think part of my soul came out on that q-tip. I’ve been tested many times. Never before have I been so violated in my entire life.  

Such is the world we now live in.

I have not taken any time to write about the intricacies of travel in a post-pandemic world. Part of me wanted to avoid being another noisy voice in an already Covid-inundated world. Needless to say, nearly every aspect of travel has been changed in some way by the pandemic. From downright lockdowns and border closures, to the talk of “Covid Passports,” travel is slowly returning to what we consider “normal.”

My wife and I sat in the same boat as the rest of the world: we hadn’t traveled overseas in over a year, our longest stretch of US time in more than 7 years. So our return to international travel thrilled us.

And one of the first countries to reopen fully, without a 14-day quarantine, was Iceland. If we could only figure out the entry requirements.

The first step was easy. Each person traveling to Iceland had to either be 1) fully vaccinated and carrying an official vaccination card, or 2) carrying an official document stating that they had been diagnosed with Covid and recovered in the past 6 months.

Yes, this is frustrating. For as long as I can remember, the US passport had been the key to the world. And Americans are not used to restrictions and recommendations that involve our personal rights and personhood. We’re an independent and individualistic people. And there’s nothing wrong with that. But in an evolving global scene, it’s something for which we have to manage and adjust.  Eventually, countries will no longer require a vaccine card. This week alone, most of the EU reopened to US travelers with no restrictions or vaccination requirements.

We then had to pre-register to cross into Iceland. The registration makes it so that they can tie our entry to our entry Covid test (more on that in a minute).

However, prior to entry, each traveler has to register and pay for a Covid test (to be completed in Iceland) within 72 hours of returning back to the US. This was a US requirement. At the time writing, the United States still requires a negative test no more than 3 days prior to the coming back, whether you’re vaccinated or not. In Iceland, the test runs you a cool 60 of your American Federal Reserve notes.

But don’t be fooled. All of these requirements have changed and will change again. Travel requirements remain constantly fluid (think about that phrase a moment) and ever changing. Requirements changed up until a week before our departure.

We deplaned after a 7-hour flight from Minneapolis to the Keflavik Airport. The only oddity was that we never received any kind of customs form on the plane. We just figured that we’d be asked a thousand questions at customs when we landed. Passport control, border security, customs, nobody ever asked us where we were staying or even which city we’d be in.

But soon after that, each passenger was herded to a line and fed through a trailer, just outside the airport.

A man at the counter asked us a couple of questions about our visit as he went through our papers. He also instructed us to download an app called Rakning C-19. This app would not only give us our test results, but it would also track our whereabouts, inform us of potentially Covid-dense areas, and send our whereabouts to the government should we leave a required quarantine. They would also send our results to our email address. Needless to say, I did not download this app.

And now we get back to the part where the lady violates my face. 

It was different for each passenger, but for me, the lady testing me told me to put my hands at my side and not to move. She swabbed my throat first. Then she produced a corn-stalk-sized q-tip and crammed it four inches into the darkness of my cranial space. I’ve been tested many times. This was a different animal. I may not recover.

Icelandic government tells each tourist that they must wait for a negative result prior to leaving their respective hotels, or, in our case, an Airbnb. Each of the six of us traveling together had been vaccinated. And each of us had actually had Covid in the past six months. If there was a more immune group on the island, I would have been shocked.

The last thing we wanted to do was stay in our rooms.

So…we didn’t. We had heard it would take at least four hours (possibly up to 24 hours) to hear back from the government about our test results. So when we got to our Airbnb, we took a nap and cleaned up from a long day of travel. And when we had rested, out the door we went.

Later that night, after a crazy and great day of Icelandic fun, I checked my email.

Lo and behold, here’s what I had in my inbox:

        Hi Anthony,

Your Covid test came back inconclusive. Please contact me by responding to this e-mail. 

An inconclusive result always leads to isolation and the Instructions for persons under home-based isolation must be followed.

A sleep deprived and jet-lagged mind like mine immediately thought of the worst, “I’m going to be on a two-week quarantine at some Red Cross facility in Iceland.” There was no way I was positive for Covid. There had to be some mistake. I was vaccinated, already had Covid, and was symptom free. And there was no way I was flying to Iceland just to sit in an Airbnb for the entire trip. Especially since there was no way I had Covid. Our group got to talking and decided on one thing: the Icelandic Government does not have our location, and nobody downloaded the tracking app.

We threw caution to the wind and continued our trip.

Later, another email:

Anthony             

Please be in touch about your Covid test.

The plan was simple. By this time, we were already two days into a five-day trip. Which meant that we had to get another test the following morning for our return to the US. I’d hold off communication with the Icelandic Covid Police, get my test, and send them my negative results.

So we did that. The next day, we went to Reykjavik for our test. This time, a testing lady told me to stand against the wall and put my hands to my side. She was even worse than the first lady. Must have been her older, angrier aunt or something. We suffered again.

But the test results came back negative. Confident, I attached them to a reply email, and sent it on its way. I stuffed my phone in my pocket and forgot all about it.

But later that night, I had another email waiting for me:

Hello Anthony

I hope you are aware that you were not allowed to take the test at this Centre and you were lucky that you got away with it since you were inconclusive at the airport.

Wow, I was lucky that I got away with it. I had taken the test at the wrong location. My communication with this person was done. The last thing I needed in life was to unintentionally end up in an Icelandic prison. Our return trip went well and we had no trouble at the border. Although, when we got to the part where they check your Covid test information, I was a bit nervous, waiting for a SWAT team to spring out and haul me away. But nothing happened.

I don’t have Covid.

Iceland doesn’t hate me.

And their restrictions have probably since changed anyway.

But still, it felt like a narrow escape.

 

anthony forrest

 

**Edit: as of today, July 1, 2021, Iceland no longer requires Covid testing, quarantine, or face masks. The time to travel there is now.

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